Method of making storm welts



April 22, 1952 GEMME 2,593,871

METHOD OF MAKING STORM WELTS Filed Jan. 13, 1950 p I? 1.54 2/ 54 a0 a 5a, g! 5 a: j h/fi /f f 34 56' W Wm m Ill 1%Z06/ZZOP jedi&fifleirziiw 2%MM aw, 529

Patented Apr. 22, 1952 2,593,871 METHOD OF MAKING STORM WEI/rs Leon H.(lemme, Worcester. Mass., assignor to L. Farber Welting Company,Worcester, Massa a corporation of-Massachusetts Application January 13,1950; Serial Nn'i'sasszi 4 Claims. (01. 12-446) This invention relatesto improved methods of making storm welt strip and has for its principalobjects to produce storm welt of a kind having an upstanding bead risingfrom its top surface close to the sewing edge in a manner which is botheconomical of material and easy to manufacture. In accordance with themethod herein illustrated, a fillet of slightly more than double thewidth of the welt strip to be produced is severed longitudinally in aplane inclined from its top to its bottom surface, and separated intotwo strips each having a square edge and a beveled inner edge. Angularcuts are then made in each strip, one starting at the bottom surface atthe base of the beveled portion, extending upwardly therefrom toward thetop surface and the other laterally from the upper end of the first,outward toward the square edge an amount substantially equal to thewidth of the beveled surface, partially to sever from the strip a flaphaving a comparatively thin hinge portion terminating in a substantiallytriangular portion constituted by the beveled edge and leaving asubjacent shoulder including an upwardly facing shelf and a lateral edgeface at the sewing edge. Thefiap is then bent upon itself and thetriangular portion is seated on the shelf so that the beveledfacethereof is in contact with the shelf and is tucked back until its edgeis nearly flush with the lateral edge face of the shoulder. Adhesiveis'applied to the beveled face and/or the shelf to hold the bead inplace. Following this, grooves are formed in the inner inclined surfaceof the bead and in the bottom of the strip.

The invention will now be described in greater detail with reference tothe accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is an isometric view of a short length of fillet having a topgrain surface and a bottom flesh surface, the strip being splitlongitudinally by a diagonal cut from top to bottom;

Fig. 2 shows the fillet separated into two welt strips each having abeveled edge and a square edge and further incised by angular cuts toprovide a bead-forming fiap;

Fig. 3 shows the welt strip at the right side of Fig. 2 after the beadflap has beenlifted and doubled upon itself to form anupstanding bead;

Fig. 4 shows the finished welt strip after removal of material from thetriangular portionof the flap and removal of material from the bottomface of the strip to provide grooves in both the top and bottom sides ofthe sewing edgef Fig. 5 shows a modified treatment of the welt stripswherein the bead-forming-flaps are incised l by angular cuts whichintersect in a smooth curvej Fig. 6 shows the welt strip at the left ofFig. 5 after the bead flap has been lifted and doubled upon itself toform a bead and the two grooves havebeen provided at the top and bottomside of the sewing edge;

Fig. 7 shows the welt strip at the right side of Fig. 5 after the beadflap has been lifted and doubled upon itself to form a bead and thetwogrooves have-been provided at the top and bothave been provided at thetop and bottom side of the sewing edge.

Referring to Fig. 1 there is shown a short length of fillet 10 which isdouble the width of the welt strip to be produced plus fe of an inchhaving an upper grain surface and a lower flesh surface fromwhichtwocontinuous welt strips I 8 and 2!] are made by cutting through thebody of the fillet from top to bottom in an inclined plane 12 in such amanner that the cut emerges from the top and-bottom surfaces along linesl4 and I6 substantially equally distant from the opposite edges of thefillet. Following severance in the plane l2 the fillet is separated asillustrated in Fig. 2 and each strip as thusformed has an outer squareedge 22 and an inner beveled portion 24, the latter having an inclinedor beveled surface 26. Each strip is then treated to form a bead flap bymaking angular cuts 28 and an therein. The cut 28 starts in the lower orflesh surface substantially at the base of the beveled portion, andrises upwardly in the body of the welt strip to a point appreciablybeyond the midplane. The cut 30 then extends laterally from the upperend of the cut 28 outwardly toward the square edge substantiallyparallel to the top and bottom surfaces a distance whi-ch'issubstantially equal to the length of the beveled surface 26. Thebeadforming flap as thus partially severed from the welt strip may belifted upwardly therefrom and has a comparatively thin hinge-likeportion 3|, terminating in the beveledor triangular portion 24, one sideof which is constituted by the beveled surface 26 j Underlying thebead-forming flap is a shoulder 32- havingan upwardly facing shelf 34and an end edge 36. To form up the bead the flap is lifted upwardlyabout its hinged portion and bent back upon itself so that the beveledsurface 26 of the triangular portion is brought into engagement with thesubjacent shelf 34 and is then adhesively secured thereto. The outerportion of the formed head I) rises nearly vertically from the plane ofthe welt extension e and the inner portion slopes toward the sewin edge.The apex of the triangular portion 24 is brought substantially flushwith the end edge 36 of the shoulder 32. Following this a shallow groove40 is formed in the inner inclined surface s of the bead by removing astrip of material therefrom preferably of sufiicient depth to penetratethe grain, if there is a grain, and so situated that one wall of thegroove is substantially tangent to the upper surface of the weltextension and the other is tangent to a plane perpendicular to the weltextension. The sloping surface s of the bead accordingly has a ratherabrupt shoulder 4|, substantially midway between its top and base, welladapted to fit snugly against the rising upper material close to thewelt crease of a shoe to which it is to be applied, and a substantiallyhorizontal lip 42 beveled at its extremity adapted to fit snugly intothe welt crease. A second groove 44 may be formed in the bottom surfaceof the welt strip substantially subjacent to the inner end of theshoulder 32 to provide a stitched groove in which the stitches at theunder side of the welt will be buried and hence will not interfere withthe sole when it is laid against the welting.

Alternative methods of cutting the strip are shown in Figs. 5 to 9inclusive. In Figs. 5, 6 and 7 the angular cuts 28 and 30 which aresituated substantially at right angles to each other, as in the previousconstruction, are modified by making the incisions so that theyintersect at a small radius 'r. The subjacent shoulder 32 has a roundedouter corner. In this case, when the triangular portion 24 of thebead-forming flap of the strip at the right side of Fig. 5 is placed onthe subjacent shelf 34 its apex will be pressed downwardly about therounded corner of the shoulder so that the exposed inner surface s ofthe bead merges more smoothly with the end edge 36 of the shoulder (Fig.7). When the strip at the left-hand side of Fig. 5 is similarly treatedthe apex sets up from the shelf as shown in Fig. 6. Actually the set-upis so small as to be hardly noticeable and as a practical matter, may beignored. The set-up is probably due to the inherent stiffness of thetriangular portion 24 and to the fact that in this particular form theapex must be bent a much further distance to bring it into engagementwith the end edge face 36 than the apex of the strip shown at therighthand side of Fig. 5. As in the previously formed strips, thegrooves 40 and 44 are made by removing appropriate amounts of materialfrom the sloping surface s of the formedup bead and the bottom surfaceof the welt strip.

In Figs. 8 and 9 the angular cuts 28 and 33 are further modified inrespect to at least one strip. In the strip at the left side of Fig. 8the cuts are made so as to intersect at an obtuse angle a. while thoseon the strip at the right side are made the same as shown in Fig. 5. Itis to be understood however, that the strip at the right may be treatedin the same manner as that at the left. As illustrated in Fig. 8, thecut 28 inclines upwardly and outwardly at an acute angle to the bottomsurface, meeting the horizontal cut 30 at an obtuse angle a so as toprovide a shoulder 4 32 having a horizontal shelf 34 and an inclinededge face 36. When the triangular portion 24 of the flap is seated onthe shelf 34 its beveled surface 26 will have contact with thehorizontal shelf of the shoulder (Fig. 9). As in Fig. 6, the apex willset up from the inclined edge face but this set-up is so small that itmay be ignored. Grooves 40 and 44 are then formed in this strip asheretofore explained.

All of the cuts made in the preparation of the fillet and the welt stripfor beading up are made by conventional slitting knives held instationary fixtures while the strips are moved relative thereto. Suchcutting knives and the apparatus neces sary to draw the strips relativethereto, being well-known in the art, have not been illustrated herein.I

It is to be observed that in each case the finished welt strip has ahorizontal grain faced welt extension from which rises a bead having anearly vertical outer face and an inclined inner face, the inner face ofwhich has a rather abrupt shoulder of nearly vertical inclination and ahorizontal ledge situated substantially in the plane of the weltextension. The terminal edge of the ledge is inclined so as to meet theedge face of the welt body smoothly. It is to be observed that in eachcase where the welt strip is made from the half of the fillet having thegrain surface extending from edge to edge the entire bead will have agrain surface while the welt strip made from the other half of thefillet will have a grain surface extending up to the top of the bead atthe outside and a flesh surface throughout the inner inclined portion.

By constructing the beaded welt strips in the foregoing manner from asingle fillet it is evident that substantially similarly shaped weltstrips may be produced with a saving in material and without unduecomplications in manufacture.

It should be understood that the present disclosure is for the purposeof illustration only and that this invention includes all modificationsand equivalents which fall within the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A method of making storm welting comprising the steps of providing awelt strip having a square outer edge and beveled inner edge, making acut in said strip starting at the bottom surface, extending upwardlyappreciably beyond the medial plane and then laterally toward the squareedge of the strip, said out originating at the base of the beveled edgeand terminating in I a plane substantially parallel to the surfaces,

thereby partially severing a bead-forming flap from the strip having athin hinge-like portion and an end portion constituted by said bevelededge and leaving a subjacent shoulder having an upwardly faced shelf,lifting the bead-forming flap about its anchored end, bending it doubleupon itself to bring the surface portion of the beveled edge dividedfrom the remainder of the strip by said out originating at the bottomsurface into engagement with the subjacent shelf, securing said portionof the beveled edge to the shelf to form a bead standing upright fromthe top surface of the strip having a generally vertical outer surfaceand an inner surface declivitating toward the sewing edge, and removingfrom the inward inclined surface of the bead near the sewing edge astrip of material to provide a concave groove, one wall of which issubstantially tangent to the plane of the top surface of the welt.

2. A method of making storm welt in accordance with claim 1 wherein thesurface portion of the beveled edge divided from the remainder of thestrip by said out originating at the bottom surface is inclined andintersects the top at the extremity of the bevel.

3. A method of making storm welting in accordance with claim 1 whereinthe surface portion of the beveled edge divided from the remainder ofthe strip by said out originating at 10 Number the bottom surface formsan extension of the bottom surface and intersects the inclined surfaceof the bevel at its extremity.

4. A method according to claim 1 wherein adhesive is interposed betweenthe surface portion 15 of the beveled edge and the subjacent shelf ofthe shoulder, adhesively to anchor the beveled edge to the shoulder.

LEON H. GEMME.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date 1,708,627 Lyon Apr. 9, 1929 1,993,954Bates Mar. 12, 1935 1,996,844 Vizard Apr. 9, 1935 2,153,321 Vizard Apr.4, 1939 2,241,692 Vizard May 13, 1941 2,299,263 Vizard Oct. 20, 1942

